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Hatching Eggs Information Page

In the wild, a bird lays an egg where she broods it. She does not lay the egg in one place and roll it to another. Because she knows movement can render an egg useless. No matter how well any eggs are package, you likely will never have a 100% hatch rate. To tell you otherwise would be a lie. We aren’t going to lie.

Guarantees; there are none so please read the full page there is a test at the end.

We want your return business. We want you to tell friends how great our chicks are. We value a good reputation. A man is only as good as his word and I take pride in my word. However, there is a risk involved in shipping  and hatching eggs.

We strive to provide you the highest quality hatching eggs available. There is NO, we repeat NO, guarantee of hatchability when you purchase fertile eggs through the mail…not even in person…not even if a hen hatches them. We’ve had hens break eggs sitting on them.

There is a reasonable expectation for your eggs to arrive intact; not broken or cracked, and that they are EXTREMELY likely to be fertile. When notified promptly of such listed damage on arrival, we will do what we can to make things right. Nevertheless, once eggs arrival and are placed in an incubator. We do not know what type of incubator is used. Perhaps the incubator failed to turn the eggs, was the incubator in a safe stable place away from the cat or did the power go out? Perchance were the eggs damaged in transit? Maybe the Department of Homeland Security X-rayed the package? Maybe ET abducted them…Bigfoot took the Mail truck for a spin? We believe the USPS is the best in the world. However, things happen that just can’t be explained. Machines toss boxes, damaged them, shake them, loose them or mail gets delivered to the wrong house. The mailperson catches the mistake goes back retrieves said box later to you. Boxes may be left in extreme temperatures for extended periods. All of these scenarios affect viability and hatching; and none of it is something you did or we did. It is, however, the risk of purchasing eggs and shipping.

There is no way for breeders to test each egg for fertility prior to shipping, we (as do most fertilized egg sellers) take time to incubate & hatch eggs regularly to verify fertility. It is our only measure to ensure our eggs are hatching. The only way to verify fertility of an egg is by cracking the egg and looking at the yolk. You cannot candle to determine fertilization.

Understand that YOU, the buyer, bears the responsibility for purchasing hatching eggs; unless you immediately show Doodle Do Spa and Chick Inn the eggs are cracked, broken or damaged ON ARRIVAL!!! Returning the eggs after incubation does not count!

We do understand that the post office may handle your eggs inappropriately while they are in transit.

We always recommend, customers REQUEST additional insurance in the comment section when placing your order. 

Egg orders shipped via Priority Mail EXPRESS come with $100 of insurance. Special care and Hand Carry instructions can also be requested from USPS. 

Any damaged eggs upon arrival will be considered for replacement or credit when the insurance claim filed by Doodle Do Spa and Chick Inn is approved with the USPS. Customers must provide evidence of damages to the eggs; showing the identifying marks on our eggs, within 48 hours of arrival, pictures also must include the label on the box and the box itself for the claim process.

Final agreements to purchasing hatching eggs:

- You agree you will not eat the eggs. They are not food for you or anyone else at your home.

- You acknowledge that when gathered and mailed to you, the eggs may have contaminants on them.

- You agree to wash your hands before and after handling the eggs.

- You accept there may be delays in mailing or processing.

- You agree and understand that Doodle Do Spa and Chick Inn and its farmers are not responsible for loss or damage incurred by your purchase. If you cut your hand on the box, if you claim the eggs had some sort of disease on them, if the birds hatch and kill your other birds, if an alien hatches from the eggs and eats your barn, if you believe the bird is the next antichrist and caused you to trip in your barn, if the birds have a communicable disease, if you fall on the eggs and the shells are so hard they impaled your skin, if you ruin your manicure when pulling a chick from the incubator, if you are injured in any way, if the egg explodes and blows the lid of your incubator through a window, or knocks you in the head, if you suffer any losses in any way as the result of buying our products, you agree to hold us harmless.

Has that horse been beat to death yet? We didn’t think so either…

If you have never bought hatching eggs before, we recommend you do some research on the pros and cons of it before hand.

The bottom line is this; the only way to secure a guarantee is to crawl in a nest box and try to hatch them yourself (good luck with that and take some videos) or buy live chicks.

We will package the eggs carefully. We will send extras along just in case but once the box leaves our farm, it is out of our control. 

There are NO guarantees on hatching eggs--they are a gamble. Sometimes you have a decent hatch, sometimes you don't. 

We can not be held responsible for rough handling by the USPS. The post office doesn't care how much you spent on them.

We do not guarantee any hatch after eggs have shipped. Circumstances are beyond our control once the eggs leave our farm this includes rough handling by Postal Service employees.

We can’t stress this enough. 


Even the freshest eggs, under ideal conditions don’t always develop and hatch and lack of development does NOT equal infertility. We sell the exact same eggs to you that we hatch. We do our best to package your eggs carefully and send extras. 

Once they leave our farm, they are out of our site and we are no longer responsible for your eggs. 

Please Read that again– “Once they leave our farm, we are no longer responsible for your eggs” 

NO GUARANTEES– no exceptions. 

We will not replace eggs that do not hatch due to allege infertile falsehoods, incubating error, human error or acts of God.

Lastly, it is not fair to anyone to post bad reviews when you’re upset about something  truly out of anyone's control. Very reputable longstanding breeders held in high regard have received an unfair “bad review” because someone states, “I received "unfertilized" eggs from so and so… and my eggs didn’t hatch…so and so would not give me a refund…so and so is horrible…”

There is no way to determine if an egg is fertile at the point that you receive it for incubation. If you feel there is, please do more research and do not purchase eggs through the mail to incubate. 

Please reach out to us or someone in the chicken community and we will be happy to discuss in depth with you the methods used to successfully incubate and hatch eggs.

As always God bless everyone and take a moment to appreciate every day you are given, it is special!

Quick Overview -Local Clients Hatching Eggs

Hatching your own eggs is exciting and rewarding. We would like to prepare you with information that you might find beneficial to prepare for the arrival of your fertilized hatching eggs.

We wish you a successful hatch and as always have fun!

Starting Point With The Incubator

There are several different incubators on the market. People even use old fashion hatch methods like our Grandparents use and those are still very successful. Last but not least, those little so called Dinosaurs can still hatch eggs and be the perfect Moms too; but we wouldn’t risk that with shipped eggs. An incubator should always have a heat source controlled by a switch and we like a thermostat too. 

There are many avenues from there: Dry Hatch, Stack Hatch, or Adding in Humidity. Most incubators use adding humidity methods for hatching.

*If you are just beginning ensure plenty of time to research options; join some Facebook groups, give us a call.

Other things you will want to research: fans that circulate air in the incubator, automatic egg turners, thermostat and humidity monitors.

Getting up and Running

Where you place your incubator is important. It needs to be away from drafts, direct sunlight, temperature changes, and stable; where no one can bump it or disturb it for the entire 21 days of incubation. Once you have found your optimal nesting spot. Set your incubator up a minimum of 24 hours before placing your eggs inside. The air inside must adjust and stabilize for the perfect environment for incubation and development.

The Environment

You will need 21 days to hatch your little fluff nuggets. A general rule of thumb is for temperatures are as follows:

• Forced-air incubator (with a fan) 99.5 degrees F (acceptable range 99-100)

• Still-air incubator (no fan): shoot for a range between 100 and 101 degrees F

• Humidity

• First 18 days the recommended range of relative humidity for chicken eggs is 45-50%

• Final 3 days increase humidity to 65-70%

The biggest problem people find with hatching is the changing in humidity. Humidity fluctuates depending on where you live the weather changes the time of year. So much is dependent on this factor; that many hatching eggs have transitioned to something called dry hatching. If you are interested in this method, we suggest you research it thoroughly. It has met great success by many however, it is not for a beginner.

Adding your Eggs

Would you handle a newborn without washing your hands? Ok, don’t answer that… Please when working with hatching eggs always wash your hands to prevent bacteria from getting into the eggs.

Stop, don’t place those eggs you just got in the mail directly in that incubator; don’t do it! The little orbs need 24 hours to de-stress from their trip and unpack their luggage. So, unpack the box and let them settle gently place them in a cardboard egg carton with the pointy end down next to the incubator.

When you place your eggs in the incubator, mark one side of the shell with an identifying mark and the other side with a different mark. This visualization helps you know your egg rotator is working and/or when you have to self-rotate the eggs.

If you are not ready to begin the incubation period on the day that your eggs arrive, you may suspend them at room temperature for 6 days; but we wouldn’t hold them longer than that. We also recommend, angling the end of the carton a few inches. Then, rotate the end that is elevated every 12 hours to prevent the embryo from sticking to the shell membrane.


Some people believe better you have better hatch rates if you self-turn the eggs more during the first 17 days. Others say no you don’t you lose more heat and humidity. Maybe in the middle with some hand turning in 8 hours; maybe leave it along let the incubator do it…everyone has an opinion. Bottom line if you leave them alone and don’t turn them at all the embryo will stick to the membrane and die; I know that.

We do “candle” our eggs to see our developing chicks. We candle around day 7 to see look for small dark spots and maybe a few blood vessels. By day 14 we candle with any luck we see the air sac at the round end of the egg. If not, we remove any non-developing eggs at this point (they happen).

In the final stretch

Day 18 and we are on “lockdown”! NO sleep in this house. Just kidding we don’t sleep anyway. At lockdown you don’t open the incubator because the chicks are getting ready to hatch, so stop all egg turning and get that baby brooder ready.

If you are using humidity to hatch you will want to set increase to 65-70%.

They’re Here

By day 21 or so the peeping begins.

The chicks will start the exhaustive job of breaking out of those shells with their little egg tooth’s on their beaks. It takes a long time for some chicks. Depending on how many eggs you have it can take over 24 hours.

I know it’s tempting, but leave those little balls of wetness in the incubator until they are dry and fluffy. Once they are completely dry you can gently move each one to the brooder.